Monday 15 February 2016

Varanasi

This is one of the most colourful, unrelenting and unapologetic religious spots on earth. Dating from about 1,200 BC. A place of pilgrimage and of dying for Hindus. They come to the ghats that line the sacred river Ganges they com to have their remains consumed by fire, thus enabling reincarnation for them, to do puja (pray) and wash in the sacred waters. this is a particularly auspicious place to die. The belief is that dying here offers the chance to avoid the cycle of birth and rebirth. A magical place, but not for the faint hearted. A series of narrow traffic free alleyways parallel the river (called galis). Disorienting, but the small, popular hostels, home stays, small shops and cafes line the busy narrow alleyways in this area. All day there are long lines of  devotees proceed along the dressed in finery and bare footed, moving along in single file along to the various temples temples and shrines. They carry offerings of flowers and other devotional objects. Old, young, lame; the procession is ceaseless. I have no religious attachment, but was stunned at the open demonstration of their beliefs. On the steps leading down to the river yogis, fakirs and beggars hang out. At some of the ghats burning of the bodies of recently deceased takes place.It is not a time of sorrow! We are strictly advised not to take pictures of bodies being consume by fire. I could not resist making an image to try to capture the scene, but not the detail. Many small rowing boats line the banks of the river to take visitors for a view of the scene. I particularly liked dawn, with the mellow light shimmering across the river, birds and fishing boats so peaceful. Men and women perform the ritual of ganga puja (water prayer), floating little boats with light onto the water at dusk.). Washing in the sacred water and offering up prayers as they do so. Over 40 years ago I first experienced a river view of the scene and it has stayed with me ever since. see  "India - Varanasi City of Gods - Special Edition" in YouTube for a better idea.

It has been difficult to make choices of images for the post, so I have uploaded a huge amount to try to illustrate the place.



A porter carrying my stuff to my home stay



The Brown Bread Bakery roof top cafe. The best place to meet and chat with other travellers



Display of beads and brass work



Food for sale by a posing holy man


The ghats



Genuine holy man



I had a lovely conversation with this man



Boats moored at the side of the ghats



Confused holy man



Varanisi is the world centre for the manufacture of chillum pipes, used to smoke hashish and other substances. It is easy to see a heavy user, they have really red eyes.



A sitar and tabla accompaniment to the evening meal



Flavoured lassi, a drink made from yogurt, or buttermilk and beaten to a froth




Lassi ready to consume. Delicious!




A burning ghat prior to a cremation. Mango and neem wood are used for poorer people, the very wealthy use sandal wood!



A scene at a cremation


Wood piles ready for cremations. A precise amount is used to completely consume the body, conducted by experts



A hindu version of happy clappy which I joined in on



Flower display for a votive offering



Dawn at the ghats



My boatman ready to take me for a paddle around at dawn



Boats moored at dawn



Early morning view of a ghat




Dawn time looking towards a ghat, of which there is a miles length


Morning wash and puja in the Ganges



A ghat



View of ghats





Dawn over the Ganges



Dawn time on the Ganges at Varanasi



The peace of dawn 




Birds swirling, swimming and swooping




A lone fisherman at dawn




Remains from a cremation




Calm




Flowers for offerings





A flower offering



Colourfully dressed ladies on a ghat



Looking upriver

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